CELEBRATING OUR THIRD YEAR

February 14th, 2009, Valentine’s Day marks our third anniversary and we are thrilled to be entering our fourth year at Spacca Napoli. This anniversary makes me reflect on my beloved and loving staff and the wonderful camaraderie that has evolved here.

In his truly inspiring book, Small Giants, Bo Burlingham talks to small business owners and asks them what makes their businesses thrive. There is consensus how it is due to the working relationships that are built together over time. I recognize that my staff’s contribution to the Spacca Napoli community is a big part of who we are, and I think many of our guests consider them family like I do. I look forward every day not only to getting into the dough room, thinking about what I can offer, talking with my vendors and their drivers, and seeing new and regular customers, but also to my daily contact with all who work at the pizzeria.

Over New Years Ginny and I traveled to San Francisco to be with family and friends. We are all ‘buon gustaios — that means good eaters. A16, Delfina, and Perbacco are great restaurants to visit. A16 has come out with a very exciting book, A16 Food + Wine which has fabulous wine notes. I can’t wait to sit down and slowly absorb them.

We continue to introduce new pizza, courtesy of our friend Roberto Caporuscio such as La Cacciota which has cacciota di pecorino, bufala, and eggplant; Mascarpone, with gorgonzola torta di mascarpone, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, and ricotta; and Il Padrino, with cacciocavallo, soprasatta picante, and gaeta olives. Roberto is about to open a pizzeria and school in New York City on Bleeker Street called Keste, Pizza, and Vino.

Should you be in New York, Peasant is another restaurant on Elizabeth Street that is not to be missed. They feature rustic cuisine, very much like La Vecchia Bettola in Florence. Another fun place to visit is the Obika Mozzarella Bar on Madison Avenue. Their focus, of course, is on bufala mozzarella. They offer only mozzarellas made from the bufala milk of selected DOP producers in the Paestum and Piana del Vulturno areas around Napoli, Paestum being a very delicate taste while that of Piana del Vulturno has a stronger profile.

Besides continuing to be influenced by Roberto’s ideas for new pizza combinations, some of our old favorites are back on the board. La Fontina features bufala, porcini, and crudo; the Cafuncella has smoked mozzarella, pancetta, and rosemary roasted potatoes; and the Mailina with guancialle are just a few examples. Our velvety polpo al sugo which is octopus simmered in San Marzano tomatoes, gaeta olives, capers, garlic, and parsley is truly a winner. End of the meal cannoli and chocolate infused grappa are also a lot of fun.

Next up is the annual Pizza Expo in Las Vegas. The expo is a great place to network and attend seminars. I have two good friends there, John Arena and Sam Fachini, cousins and owners of the Pizza Metro Pizzerias. I consider John and Sam my ‘consigliere’ and love to be in their presence. Together they have over 70 years of pizza experience combined. I met them several years ago through Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby who are food editors of Chicago magazine and authors of the informative book, Everybody Loves Pizza. John and Sam grew up in Little Italy, New York, just steps away from Lombardi Pizzeria on Spring Street which was the first licensed pizzeria in the US circa 1905. At the Expo I stay close by Antimo and Eugenio Caputo, of Molino Caputo, the makers of our imported Neapolitan flour, my pizza grande friends Roberto Caporuscio and Antonio Starita, and Fred Mortati of Orlando foods, the importer of our Accademia Barilla products. I cannot tell you how much I learn when I am around and in dialogue with all of them. To me they represent what pizza is all about.

To all who read this, again my best wishes as we settle into the 2009. Thank you for all of your kindness and support. Happy anniversary! Auguri, tre anni.

IT'S ALL ABOUT CHEESE

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Crucolo, ubriaco, montasio, stracchino, robiola bosina, and pecorino crotonese are some of the new cheeses that we are beginning to work with here at Spacca Napoli. My friend Roberto Caporuscio (of the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani) and I visited with John Nitti of Isola Imports in Chicago to review some of the wonderful cheeses that he has to offer, and to consider how they may be introduced into our repertoire of pizze. This has been wonderful research! Trying new combinations with my staff has been a lot of fun, as I think it has been for some of you who have come in to dine these past couple of weeks. These new pizze, named after the cheeses, have been long celebrated at home in Italy, both north and south.

Stracchino is a favorite in Recco, on the Ligurian coast east of Genoa. Stracchino is a soft and creamy, mild and delicate cheese. The name comes from the word “stracca,” meaning tired. It is said that the milk from the cows producing this particular cheese is richer in fats and more acidic because of their seasonal movement up and down the Alps. The locals in Recco make a focaccia ripieno (stuffed) with just stracchino while we add porcini mushrooms and a touch of basil.

Ubriaco means drunk in Italian. This cheese is made from cow’s milk, which is soaked in wine and covered with crushed grape skins. Musty, tart, and nutty in flavor, ubriaco originates from ancient times in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of Italy when olive oil was scarce and expensive. Grape pomace and wine was plentiful after the harvest and was substituted to preserve the cheese. We use this one with prosciutto crudo.

Crucolo is from the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Italy and balances sweet, buttery, creamy, salty, and sharp nuances all so well. Coppa dolce, sundried and cherry tomatoes go with this one. We will soon begin to play with pecorino crotonese and its dance with soppressata piccante.

We have been involved with several charity events and have continued to commit our support to certain local not-for-profit community organizations. Calcio Chicago and their support of Big Brothers and Sisters of Metropolitan Chicago, the Cook Italy Foundation and its support of the Mercy Home for Boys and Girls, and the Inspiration Corporation and its support of the homeless are favorites of mine.

As the holidays approach, we are also collecting gently used coats, hats and other cold weather items here at the restaurant for a neighborhood church. Please go through your closets and drawers and see if there is something you have that could benefit some one else. May all of you have wonderful holidays.

Information in this letter about the various cheeses is taken from the following websites:

Stracchino – www.appetizerstogo.com

Ubriaco – www.forkandbottle.com

Crucolo - maitre-fromager.livejournal.com

www.recipetips.com

GREETINGS

In late September, Roberto Caporuscio of the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, returned to work with us. I am only sorry that he is not with us every day! Roberto is such a great teacher and inspiration. Not only did we continue to work with how we extend the dough and engage the oven, Roberto introduced several new antipasti (assagi) to our repertoire that we will be offering on our menu as specials, such as carciofi e patate, carote al parmigiano, mozzarella in carrozza, melanzane involtini, polpette di finocchietti, angioletti to name just a few. We also played with the form of the pizza, such as quattro catone or four corners (making pies with four mini calzone); naso a naso or nose to nose (one calzone facing another); cornicione ripieno or stuffed borders; volcano (one on top of the other), and pizza fritta or fried pizza. Roberto and I had some time to play as well. Zucchero, the popular and great Italian blues artist was in the US for a brief tour. We were given the opportunity to cook for him and his ensemble on the dates he performed in Chicago. If you aren’t familiar with Zucchero, check out his music and his history. He has played with many, many great artists from the world over. It truly was a lot of fun to be part of these events.

I followed Zucchero to New York where he performed on his birthday at Carnegie Hall. During this trip I was able to take some time with Lou DiPalo, whose great grandfather began the family’s Latteria (cheese and ricotta shop) in 1910 in lower Manhattan’s “Little Italy”. Lou is a wonderful guy, very willing to share his great knowledge of cheese, Italian meats and other Italian specialty products. There’s nothing like fresh mozzarella! Casa della Mozzarella on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx is another great place to visit.

As we experience the changing of the seasons, the pizze we offer evolve to complement those changes. You will see a greater use of pancetta, porcini, guanciale, potato and egg, and the hand-dipped ricotta more widely used. A new favorite is the “L’Antonio,”consisting of bufala mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, speck (a dry-cured smoked ham from Alto Adige) and our creamy ricotta. This pie is named in honor of Antonio Starita, one of the great pizzaiuoli of Naples. A third generation pizza maker, you can find him in the neighborhood called Materdei. Pizzeria Starita dates back to 1901. The year of Italy’s Giubileo, Antonio had the good fortune to present Pope John Paul with his “Pizza Del Papa.” Crema di zucca, fiorilli, zucchini, peperoni (peppers) and provola were the ingredients.

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Our soups also change with the seasons. Fagioli e scarola, minestra with prosciutto and soppressata, and one with mussels and clams are now back in rotation. Soups are soothing, the classic comfort food, and something we are all in need of as we face greater challenges in our daily lives.

One of our greatest pleasures at Spacca Napoli is hearing from someone that this is where they want to be, that we are able to provide a sense of belonging and community, as the following little story illustrates. Recently one of our regular diners came in to eat. I spoke with her at the end of her meal and realized that she had called earlier to see how busy we were. She then told me that she had originally planned to stay home that night, but decided that she wanted some company, and that she wanted to be with us. Not only do we aspire to offer good food and drink, it is our intent to make our place feel like it is yours as well. I’ll close with an autumnal welcome to all of our customers, new and continuing. Let us know how you like our new offerings. I am thankful for your continued support, kindness and feedback.